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* Shelly’s fourth log of her hike …
Shelly Skye has sent more to the Fast Track To Work Office with a continuation of her experience on her hike this summer.
Day 12 (con’t.)
I sent the first half of the day off to Fast Track To Work. However, the sun is still up. My tent is up, the water is curing and so far, no mosquitoes. It may be too hot.
I took a rinse off in the river and washed out today’s underwear and socks. I’m not what anyone would call clean but I don’t think I’ll be too sticky and uncomfortable in bed tonight.
Since I couldn’t pack a whole 7 days in my bear canister, I’m going to have to sit down and figure out my mileage in order to get out at Keasarge Pass and into town. I’ll probably be there at least one day early. No matter. I’ll get a hotel or something.
7:01 pm
OK. I’ve got it figured out. I have to average 12.5 miles a day for six days to get to OV at the same time as my food runs out. I have plenty of food for those 6 days, just not beyond. Unfortunately, I may have to make some of those days longer than 12.5 due to passes, camping options, etc. At least I know it can be done. What this means is to be getting up early and on the trail by 6 or so. If this heat continues, I don’t know how I’ll hike in it.
Looking at the plan, it seems as though tomorrow is the only day that doesn’t include going over a pass, though it gets me close to Muir Pass and it’s supposed to be difficult. So if all goes according to plan, tomorrow is a 15.7-mile day. I may be walking into the evening.
It’s kind of cool, actually, to have such a big, task-oriented goal for the next six days. It will help me with time passing and the accumulation of miles. I’ve been on the trail 12 days, though I’ve had two layover days and I’ve barely made it halfway. Time to make some serious miles and meet goals. Day by day.
It’s 7:57 pm. The sun is still in the tops of the trees and I’m lying in the sack.
The campsite I’m in has been heavily used by horse parties. Meaning, people out and about using horses as transportation. Not youthful horses out shaking a hoof on a Saturday night. It is heavily manured, as the soil is loose and really dusty. Mucked up. I heard that a couple of nights ago a PCTer got his/her food stolen by a bruin in this campground. Didn’t have a canister and had hung the food from a tree. I hope they hadn’t just re-supplied from Muir Ranch.
For myself, I had to push and shove to get my food and most of my toiletries into the canister. As it was, I wasn’t about to get absolutely everything in. So I laid out the very few things I couldn’t fit right on the rocks near the canister. Hopefully if a bear does show up, he/she won’t be interested in my dental floss, tooth powder or Imodium.
Day 13
9:03 am
Aspen Meadow,
Kings Canyon National Park
Broke camp this morning and hit the trail at 6:06 am. Didn’t sleep much last night. I think I ate my chocolate covered espresso beans too late in the day yesterday(?). It’s a hard life.
Making good time thus far today. Probably gone 4 miles or so by 8:30 am. There were high clouds off to the east this morning so I pulled out my poncho and attached it to the top of my pack, just in case. At this point, the clouds and I seem to have parted ways.
I stopped here for a tea and snack break as I’ve got a long day ahead of me.
Those shorts I was worried about way back in Yosemite Valley? They have been fine until the last two days. I think when I washed them at VVR, I didn’t get all the soap out of them. Yesterday I started getting a rash on my inner thighs and today it is even more uncomfortable. I rinsed them once yesterday but I guess that didn’t work. I’ll try again today when it gets hotter. Sure hope something works cuz I’m gonna look funny walking down the trail sans shorts.
2:03 pm
Somewhere in Evolution Valley
The clouds are back but they don’t look like the rainin’ kind. For all I know. They definitely aren’t thunderclouds.
I’m tuckered out already and I have a feeling I still have quite a ways to go. I was looking for a summer ranger station in McClure Meadows but haven’t seen it yet. A guy I met earlier today just passed by and told me we had passed it. It feels like we should have passed it but I certainly didn’t see it and I’ve been looking. Walking in this valley doesn’t give any clue as to how far one has gone or has yet to go. I know my back is tired, feet howling and legs sleepy. But, I have promises to keep and miles to go before I sleep.
6:24 pm
As I suspected, I hadn’t yet gotten to McClure Meadow. Ten or so minutes after I stopped for lunch, I saw a large meadow come into view and a little log cabin ranger home. I went up to chat with the ranger whose name is Dario. Very nice, turned me on to two possible places to stay tonight; the first at the base of the 2 mile switchback climb to Evolution Lake (my night’s goal) and the second at the lake itself. I had hoped to be able to get to the lake but I was hurting too much to do those switchbacks at the end of a long day. So instead of 16 miles, I did 14. That’s good but it does put me off my schedule. I’m sure I can make the adjustment. Dario is a seasonal ranger who works 3 months a year in the Sierras and then in the off-season in Los Padres — Monterey District. He’s going to be in charge of getting those nasty trails worked on. Very nice, he gave me an orange. I was too full after dinner to eat it and it won’t fit into my canister so I just set it on a rock. I hope no one takes it in the night. I can have it for breakfast.
I’m camped on a little rise above Darwin Creek. My tent is about 20’ from the creek and it is LOUD. In a good way. Right across the way is the Hermit (12,328', a big one). I’m starting to get into big mountain country now. Tomorrow is Muir Pass (11,955'). It should be about six or seven miles from here and I’ll get there pretty early tomorrow. I hope.
I’ve made the adjustment and tomorrow I’ll walk from Darwin Creek to LaConte Canyon, where there is a ranger I’m supposed to say hi to. If I’ve got it figured out right that would be a 13.6 mile day. Pretty much like today. I can do that. I started the day today at 7,600' and I’m now over 9,700'. Spent the whole day climbing.
It’s strange how my attitude shifts during the day. Early in the a.m. I’m all confident and sure of myself. As the day goes on and I begin to drag, I start hoping for a disaster to make me go home. And I notice which trails go out to a town and think about just heading out and giving up the dream. By the time I have stopped for the day, had dinner and buttoned everything up for the night, I’m feeling somewhat better. By morning I’m back to my “I can do it” self. I had no idea it would be so hard to carry on day after day.
I was thinking that if the JMT were equal to getting a college degree, then doing the PCT would be like becoming a doctor. It’s hard enough to get up every day and walk for a month. I can’t imagine doing it for four or five months. Not alone anyway.
Tonight is the full moon. I hope I don’t hear too much howling!
Day 14
When the going gets tough, the tough get quoting:
You are what you think.
All that you are arises with your thoughts.
With your thoughts you create your world.
Left at 6:45 am and hit the switchbacks. Still tired. Still thinking of ways to bail out. Must change my thoughts and the legs will follow.
I repeated the above quote most of the morning and in an hour or so, I was relaxed and happy. Enjoying the hike and the day. Made it up Muir Pass and the hut on top by 11:50 am. I had been leapfrogging a father/son duo on the long hike up and we all ate lunch in the hut together. The father made me uncomfortable so I spent the latter part of the day trying to hike ahead of them. I had seen where Heather/Julie were just one (?) hour ahead of me so I wanted to catch up with them. I finally did at about 4 pm and I decided to camp here. For the company and because of the father/son duo. When they came by he said, “Hey, this isn’t Little Pete Meadow,” which is where I had said my goal was for today. We didn’t really respond so they went on. This was a relief to me as that guy creeped me out. Also there are two guys Heather and Julie have been camping with here during their trip. One is a priest and the other a guy he knows from seminary. I think they are safe.
The problem with stopping here is that I’m two miles shy of the day’s goal, which just adds more onto tomorrow.
All of a sudden I realized I couldn’t find my permit for being in the backcountry. And I don’t remember seeing it since VVR either. I had my stuff spread out there and I wonder if I left it behind or something. I don’t know what to do. There is a ranger station in LeConte so I guess I’ll ask that person. All anyone would have to do is to call Yosemite Valley to verify but I don’t think there are any phones out here. Bummer.
I only went 11 or 12 miles today and I needed to do more. I’ll have at least a 15-mile day tomorrow if I want to get to Mather Pass, 18 if I want to get to my target camping space. Well, I can do it if I hike till dark instead of stopping at 4 pm like I’ve been doing. I really should have kept going but I was so glad to see people I know, I just didn’t want to go on.
After looking it all over it seems I should walk tomorrow till the very last place I can camp before Mather Pass. This will give me about a 13-mile day tomorrow and a 13+ mile day the next. Then on Tuesday am I’ll go up Mather, drop down less than 2,000' and go back up over Pinchot Pass. That’s 2 passes in one day but not too much up and down.
Day 15
Grass Meadows
8:42 am
I stepped out of camp this morning at 6:05 am. I had set my alarm for 5 am and I actually heard it! I wanted to get a real early start so I can get as far as possible today. When I got to LeConte I went by the Ranger station and told Bob the Ranger my sad story about the permit and he hand wrote me a permit to continue on the JMT. I hope it works. He said it should and he knows no one who wouldn’t honor such a note. Hope so.
Couldn’t sleep well last night cuz I was worried about what to do about the permit. Also I was puzzling about what the heck I did with the dang thing. Then I remembered seeing them last at MTR and realized I had sent the permit home with my maps. What a duffus. So hopefully it’s gonna be okay.
Anyway, I’m sitting on a rock at Grouse Meadows in LeConte Canyon, close to the junction to Mather Pass. Making myself a double tea bag pot of tea. Cooking pot that is. I like to do this midmorning tea thing because I’m not in a rush line when I first get up. Relaxing.
I wish I knew about bird songs and what kind of bird they belong to. I’m starting to recognize certain sounds but who they belong to is a certain puzzle. Complicated to the one or two noters. Relaxing to listen to.
7:35 pm
Upper Palisades Lake, 10,820'
I joined up with Heather and Julie about 10:00 and we hiked together all day. Fun for me. After lunch the guys joined us and we began the hike up the “Golden Staircase.” The last part of the JMT to be completed, and by far, the most difficult hiking I’ve ever had to do. The switchbacks went on for 2(?) hours. HOURS! When we finally got to the top, we had to climb even higher to get past the first lake. It was very disheartening to do this hike today. All of us were struggling and it never seemed like we’d get here. There were three false summits. WOW. I don’t know how I thought I could do Mather Pass today. I’ll leave that for tomorrow. The mileage today was 13.5. My feet hurt most and it seems like I might be working on a new blister.
We were talking today and all of us agreed that doing a long trail like this was not something we would like to repeat. It’s good for me to know this about myself. Tomorrow is probably another 13+ mile day but I should be able to get over both passes. If I need to rest in the afternoon before I do Pinchot I will. I must get back on schedule!
8:19 pm
Heather just told me that my favorite birdcall I’ve been hearing is from the Hermit Thrush. I’m glad to know.
Day 16
8:53 am
Mather Pass, 12,100'
Only took us 1(?) hour to climb up to this place.
12:53 pm
Taboose Trail Junction
Eating lunch with the boys and girls. The sign at this junction says that Pinchot Pass is only four miles away. I think I’m gonna make it up and over. My legs are good but my feet are dicey …We’ll just have to see how they hold out.
8:02 pm
Junction to Sawmill Pass, on a bench above Woods Creek
Started walking this morning at 7:03 am and I found this site at 6:30 pm. 15.6 miles and two passes. First Mather and then Pinchot Pass (12,130'). Left lake Marjorie at 3:13 pm and made the 1.7 miles to the summit in 1:05 minutes. I was a woman on a mission. I still have 13+ miles to go tomorrow and another pass to climb but I’m pretty amazed I pulled off such a day. My feet are sore and I’m working on a new blister, but other than that, I feel pretty good. I guess I’m getting into good shape.
This is a very pretty place I’m camped at. The last of the sun just faded orange off the tips of the mountains. I can see out my tent door. The few clouds in the sky are the color of sherbet. One foot from my face I can see a swarm of mosquitoes that would like to get through the screen and make a meal of me.
I sure enjoyed the company of Heather, Julie, Tom and Larry. Very sweet men and gals were full of it, in a good way. It was relaxing to share the wilderness and the attending uncertainties of every decision that has to be make out here. How far should we go? Where is the safest place to cross the creek? Is this bear territory? What junction is this? All the questions and more that come up on a 15.6-mile hike. When alone, my focus is more internal and in relation to my environment. When with others, I am more externally focused with the social group. My experience of the environment is a shared one. It was enjoyable to be with those nice people but also nice to be alone again. I have two more hiking days before I get to a hotel. How will I get to Bishop? Don’t know. So far, whenever I have needed something, I’ve gotten it. Lucky me.
Day 17
8:45 am
Woods Creek Junction (8,547')
All downhill this morning. I left camp at 6:58 am and made 3.9 miles in 1:47 minutes. That’s good. I’ve got 9.1 miles to Glen Pass then a bit beyond. I have to climb from this low point to 11,978 in the next nine miles. There are clouds in the sky and I’m going to guess it could rain today. I don’t want to get caught on top in a thunderstorm. I’d better get climbing!
7:34 pm
Charlotte Lake (10,370')
Damn. What a day. I hiked for about 11 hours today. I wasn’t planning to come to this lake but it was getting late and I needed to find water. Also, it had been sprinkling off and on for an hour or so and I needed to find a place to sleep and get the tent up quick. So I guess I get to see just how good my tarp tent holds up to the rain. So far, so good. Watching me cook dinner in the rain would have been funny — me huddled over my stove, poncho on and trying to keep the mosquitoes off me, the poncho out of the flame and the cook pot upright. I’m glad that is over and done with for tonight.
Sure hope I sleep tonight and that I don’t worry about everything getting soaked. I’ve got my down bag in the bivy sack so unless the water pours in, I should be OK. And if not, I’m walking out tomorrow anyway. I can dry whatever needs drying. Today I hiked 16.3 miles. Too long a day. But I was bound and determined to get over Glenn Pass (11,978') and ready to walk out tomorrow over Kearsarge Pass. I’ve got to get to town and take a couple of days off. I need a good washing and so do my clothes. I’m sure I’m gonna offend everyone I come into contact with until I can get cleaned up. Now I know what happens when people are living on the edge and don’t have water or money to clean their clothes.
My favorite bird is singing its beautiful tune. The rain is tapping on my tent. The sun is showing through the clouds in the west and the color is tangerine I swear. Or the color of flames.
Tomorrow. Hike back out to the main trail. Take the Kearsarge Pass trail over the pass (11,845’) and into Onion Valley. I’m guessing I will have an 8.5-mile day. YES!
It was scary hiking over Glenn Pass today. So many dark clouds. I was afraid of lightning strikes. I asked the Ranger at Rac Lakes and he said I should hike the bowl at the base of the summit and then decided from there. What was amazing was that the darkest, scariest and potentially the most dangerous clouds seemed to be going on either side of the pass so I decided to go for it. I didn’t hear any thunder until I was well down off the other side. Phew.
The color of the sky is now watermelon with lavender higher up in the sky. Amazing color show.
Continued …see
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