Last Update: Dec 26, 2005
Hi, I was wondering if the moonrise always happens near the lowest tide and if so is that all over the world ? Thanks, Scott
Scott, there is a connection between the position of the Earth, the Moon and the Sun. The main tide affect is the lunar tide. It is caused by the gravity of the Moon pulling on the Earth. The lunar gravity pulls a bulge in the ocean. So as the Earth spins, as the position on the Earth faces the Moon, there is a high tide. In addition to the Lunar pull on the Earth, the Sun also pulls on the Earth. When the Sun and the Moon pull in the same direction (full Moon or new Moon), then we get the highest high tides and the lowest low tides. Here's a couple of links to web sites with good explanations including some illustrations.
Ocean Link has a good explanation,
Keith Cooley has nice graphics.
Generally, how do you read the buoys? I understand that they measure how many seconds between swells, but how does that convert into knowing whether there are likely to be waves the next day or the next week or that day?
Buoys report time between swells, amount of water in the swell (sometimes reported as height), and sometimes the direction of swells. I'll use the 46042 buoy just outside of Monterey Bay as an example. If the swell hits every 4-5 seconds, you probably won't get much surfing. They are too close together to catch and since they are so close together, they will get mixed together and the water will just be choppy. Much further apart than 20 seconds, you may get swell, but you may wait quite a while between rides. If the waves are reporting only a couple of feet, especially off shore like 46042, the sea will be flat. If the reports are 10-15 feet. Look out, the shore could get slammed. If you use a buoy with direction, you'll have help figuring out which spot may be working best. Some breaks respond best to southern swells, others to northern swells. Now about when the swell should hit the coast. That's a matter of how close your buoy is to where you surf. The 46042 reports what's happening in Monterey right now. However, in the summer, I watch reports for south shore in Hawaii. That gives us a few days heads up for possible surf.
Hi! My husband and I are going to be traveling to the Monterey area with our two kids March 19-24 and we thought we'd get a big thrill out of watching people surf or body boarding or whatever it is called! Where would be the best place for us to watch (from the shore) with out stepping on the toes(so to speak) of the surfers? I appreciate any advice. Thanks, Jamie
Head down to East Cliff Drive (in Capitola) or West Cliff Drive (Santa Cruz). Either place provides plenty of opportunities to watch surfing. Don't worry about getting in the way, because as the street names imply, you're up on cliffs looking down on the surfing. Much (probably most) is beach less surfing. Climb down the stairs right into the water to surf. The very best location is at the Lighthouse point on West Cliff Drive in Santa Cruz. From here you're out on the point and the surfers ride right past you.
I'm a new surfer who's interested in getting a board. I
have been surfing long boards and want to eventually switch over
to short boards. I'm thinking about getting a fish. I'm 5'4 and
135 lb.. Would you suggest getting a fish and what dimensions
would I need?
Thanks in advance. JP
It's easier to catch small waves on long boards than on short boards, but after you've caught the wave, the short board is more responsive which allows quick acrobatic turns and maneuvers. The long board provides a long smooth ride, while the short board allows you to 'dance' on the waves. However, the short board's quick response is tricky for beginners because a small shift in balance makes a big difference in where the board is headed. The long and the sort of it is that it's easier to get up on a wave on a long board, and it's easier to fall off the wave on a short board.
Now about that fish board. The fish is a board design similar to 1970's short boards. They are shorter than a long board, but thicker and wider than a modern short board. The fish design is a hybrid between a long and a short board. Consequently, they provide a hybrid ride. The fish design is easier to ride than a short board, but harder catch a wave than a long board. So a fish is a good board to ease the transition from long boards to short boards.
However, I'd suggest staying on your long board until you are quite comfortable catching rides. Riding waves is a lot more fun than chasing waves and getting left behind or popping up on a wave and immediately falling off the ride. I ride two boards, a 9'6" nose rider, and a 7'11' 1970's hybrid board (similar to a fish). When you're ready to get your fish, go to a surf shop you trust, and they can help you select a board that suits your needs. What works for me is a 'short' board is about 85% of the length of my long board and is approximately the same width as the long board.
Big Kahuna, I am a little confused about what tidal
conditions make for good surf. The tide chart that this page
links to says negative low tides are the best. I am assuming that
that's because at low tide the waves at the surface are
"closer" to the underwater geometry's that are forming
them, while at high tide there is a lot of water buffering
between the floor and the actual wave. But my experience, (very
little), where I surf at Surfers Beach in Half Moon Bay is that
at low tides, the beach breaking waves form, then crash right
into about 6" of water as soon as they are formed, while
high tides provide a few feet of water to ride in on. Can you
help me, and any other beginners figure out how to use the tide
information?
Low tides provide the best surfing except the places where low tide doesn't provide the best surf. Huh??? Let me explain. A big swell in shallow water makes big surf. A small swell in shallow water makes small surf. But a small swell in deep water makes - you guessed it - no surf. So low tide makes the best surfing - unless. Some places need a little bit higher tide to cover the bottom features. It's no fun surfing into a rock that's sticking out of the water at low tide. So as the tide goes out, the surf tends to pick up. But if the tide is too low for a particular beach - you may start to run out of water and have exposed bottom features (aka rocks) in the way.
Mr. Kahuna, What type of exposure suit [wet suit] works best for maintaining a reasonable comfort (i.e.. fun) level for surfing the Santa Cruz waters, which I assume are close to 55 degrees F? As a beginner, should I go for a full length? What thickness, assuming some titanium? One piece, two piece, back or front zip? I have access to Body Glove, Harveys, Oceanic, and Xcel. Thanks for commenting. Dave.
Most surfers in Santa Cruz use a full length suit. A few use short suits in the summer, but full length is the norm for winter. The water dips to lows of 55+ degrees f in the winter to about 65 degrees in the summer. I use a 4x3 with sealed seams for winter, and a 3x2 lower cost suit for summer, but I tend to be really cold natured. Most use 3x2 suits. A 3x2 with titanium might be a good compromise. DON'T get a front zipper: 1) it would be REALLY uncomfortable to lay on while paddling out, and 2) it would REALLY wreck the top of your surfboard. There are some new suits that are zipper less. Haven't tried one, but when my zipper stuck the other day, I wondered if they might be a good idea.
Spring Surf Conditions
Mr. Kahuna I will be in the Santa Cruz area for about a week in late May - any advice for this time of year ? I imagine it gets rather dicey with offshore winds starting to pick up. What is my best bet ? I'm willing to lug a long board around if necessary.
In the winter Surf ranges from flat to overhead (top spots) and can get dicey and choppy (sometimes). The summer the surf tends to be mellow. May is a transition time when you could get some big days, but most likely you'll see moderate conditions. I'd be inclined to 'lug a long board'. If conditions at top spots are better suited to shorter boards, you can always head for protected beaches (like Cowells) and enjoy the long board. If you only bring a short board, you could be shut-out, unless you're willing to rent a locally.
Of course, I tend to be more of a long boarder.
Surfer's Ear Mr. Kahuna, my sister plays Water Polo, and the doctor suggested placing a few drops of alcohol in her ear would help prevent swimmers ear. Will help alcohol prevent Surfer's Ear also?
No, Surfer's ear, and Swimmer's ear and Middle ear infection are entirely different problems.
Middle Ear Infection is an infection trapped in the middle ear. The middle ear and the outer ear are separated by the ear drum. Middle ear infections are usually associated with a runny nose or head cold. Fluid settles in the middle portion of the ear behind the ear drum. The fluid causes pressure that blocks hearing and can be quite painful. Middle ear infections are not a direct result of swimming or surfing. Doctors frequently treat middle ear infections with antibiotics.
Swimmers Ear is an outer ear problem brought on by continued dampness. People w outer ears have an opportunity to dry out. A few drops of alcohol in each ear applied after swimming, can prevent swimmers ear. Prevention is worthwhile, since swimmers ear can be quite painful. Doctors can prescribe medicated ear drops to cure swimmers ear.
Surfers Ear is quite different. It's not an infection or caused by moisture. Surfer's ear is the body's natural reaction to repeated exposure to cold wind and water. The outer ear canal is a small (about 1/4 inch diameter) passage through the scull that allows sound waves to reach the ear drum. After repeated exposure to wind and cold the bone can grow, thus closing off the opening. The constricted opening causes loss of hearing. The only 'cure' is to have the opening surgically reopened by removing the excess bone, not a pleasant thought.
The chances of surfers ear can be reduced by protecting the ears from cold wind and water. Surfing ear plugs and a hood provide protection from surfers ear. Surfing ear plugs, coupled with a surfing hood provide protection from surfers ear.
Ted, a fellow Surfn' Santa Cruz surfer, has been kind enough to share his personal experiences with Surfers Ear and Swimmers Ear. Ted writes:
"One word of caution. It has been my experience that pure alcohol or the use of similar over the counter products can actually inflame the ear canals to the point where they will temporarily close up and not allow for drainage of sea water. In many cases this will actually make things worse than no treatment at all.
I have heavy surfer's ear on both sides. Even at 27, it has now advanced to the degree where they bring in the junior nurses to gape at the case study that I fondly refer to as my head whenever I have to pop over to the Medi-Stop for a refill on my Biaxin. It is a constant companion, and ear infections usually nail me every six months or so, but I never let it keep me out of the water unless its flat anyway. This is how I deal with it:
If treated properly, Surfer's Ear is not dangerous. What is dangerous are the resulting ear infections that may occur if not treated properly. From talking to several ear specialists, including one in Laguna Beach that has treated several ASP surfers, drilling is not always the answer. This particular doctor felt that the risks of permanent ear damage from a botched surgery are far greater than those from Surfer's Ear. I am not a doctor myself, but I am my own worst patient.
I just hope these tips will help."
Thanks Ted.
How to Paddle Out Mr. Kahauna, every time I get caught inside the waves push me back to the beach. How can I avoid being pushed so far?
If you are a little tired you might try turning your back to the foam just as it gets to you. Sit back towards the tail of the board and place your hands high on the rails toward the front. This will drop you down in the water and more of the wave will go over you rather than push behind you.
Mr. Kahauna, What is the best way to crash through a big wave?
If you have a lot of energy paddle straight into the wave. If the wall is steep paddle up the face until you get to the foam. Then move a little forward on our board and grab the rails near the tip. This will dip the nose into the wall. When the nose dips press down on the back or lower part of the board with your legs. Then relax your legs some and let them drop down; not around the board. The board will pull up through the foam lip with out dropping you out. Then paddle hard to get in position for the next set.
If this all seems too hard, you can simply bail. As long as there's plenty of water, you have a good leash, and there isn't anyone too close, you can dive under the face of the wave. Since you have to remount the board, you'll spend longer in the crash zone, but eventually you'll be out to the lineup.